Omakase at Sushi Kaji

Occupying the last stretch of an ordinary strip mall in Etobicoke is Sushi Kaji, a small Japanese restaurant known for their long-standing impeccable quality, inventiveness and commitment to excellence. Yeah the restaurant may not look like much from the outside (it could easily pass for a typical sushi joint or AYCE restaurant on Bloor St.) but we all know that looks can be deceiving, right? Well, damn right 'cause even after 14 years Sushi Kaji remains as one of the best restaurants in the city (notice I said "restaurant" not just "Japanese restaurant"). Whether Sushi Kaji is indeed the best or not, in whichever category, is irrelevant because food is so subjective. However, what I can confidently say is the following: the dinner I had at Sushi Kaji two weeks ago was the best omakase I've ever had in my life (so far).

From Wednesday to Sundays, 30 diners each night will have the opportunity to experience one of two set dinners prepared by chef Mitsuhiro Kaji and his team. Omakase is the only option at Sushi Kaji - you won't find bento boxes, teriyaki or California rolls here.

So aside from the fact that Sushi Kaji doesn't offer an a la carte menu, what makes this Japanese restaurant so special? The simple answer is chef Mitsuhiro Kaji himself. Chef Kaji has been making sushi ever since he was 13 years old. For more than 10 years he apprenticed under many different master chefs all over Japan. Since immigrating to Canada in 1980, Kaji has opened eight different sushi restaurants. In May of 2000, he finally opened his very own Sushi Kaji.

Just as important as chef Kaji himself, the quality of ingredients also plays a crucial part in Sushi Kaji's success. Chef Kaji believes that the secret of good sushi is to always select best ingredients, and never compromise on quality. Kaji's Japanese supplier flies fish from Tokyo bay within 24 hours after it has been taken from the water. Kaji serves fish in the evening that he has purchased the same morning, never keeping fish overnight. Other ingredients such as vegetables, condiments and even garnishes are also exclusively imported from Japan. 

Chef Kaji's attention to detail is commendable as well. He uses different kinds of vinegar during different seasons: a soft and sweeter vinegar in the summer and a slightly more bitter one in the winter. As for soy sauce, chef Kaji prefers to make his own from scratch with dried bonito because he finds regular soy sauce too salty.

Once we sat down at Sushi Kaji the first thing I did was order sake; there's absolutely no way I can fully enjoy an omakase meal without sake! I had my favourite type of sake that evening: nigori.

SHOCHIKUBAI NIGORI SAKE 375 ml ($25)

As I mentioned before, you have the option of two set dinners: either the Waza ($100) or the Takumi ($120). Both my date and I chose the Takumi (actually I decided Takumi for the both of us). Don't you know my mantra for tasting menus is always "Go big or go home"? Hah :)

Without further ado, I present to you Sushi Kaji's "Takumi" dinner:

AMUSE

Simmered daikon radish with chicken miso sauce

APPETIZER

Deep-fried calamari cake, Japanese style omelette, shrimp & mushroom wrapped in egg crepe

SASHIMI
Ocean trout, lobster, octopus, sea bream, amber jack

STEAMED SEA BREAM - DOMYOJI STYLE

SAUTEED SCALLOPS

GRILLED SEA BASS & DUCK WRAPPED IN PAPER

Remember "go big or go home"? As if the Takumi wasn't enough, I decided to order the wagyu sukiyaki too...just for kicks.

WAGYU SUKIYAKI (additional order, $68)

EEL SUSHI WRAPPED IN LEAF

GREEN TEA NOODLE

TORCHED TORO WITH SOY SAUCE

OCTOPUS

TORO

Chef Kaji making our sushi.

OCEAN TROUT

YELLOW TAIL HAMACHI

SHRIMP, SCALLOP, LOBSTER

ABALONE

SALMON ROE

CHOPPED TORO

Dessert begins with an air kiss from chef Kaji!

YUZU MOUSSE

GREEN TEA CAKE

GREEN TEA MACARON

Many dishes at Sushi Kaji sound and look simple, but the reality is it couldn't be further from the truth. It's kinda hard to explain but for many dishes Sushi Kaji, layers of flavours seemed to emerge after each bite. From the firm pieces of lobster sashimi and the sweet sakura-flavoured rice ball, to the heftier courses such as the paper-wrapped grilled sea bass and duck, and the spool of green tea noodle floating in a clear consommé, everything seemed simple but yet you know it's anything but that. Can I just say it's pure bliss? And of course the wagyu sukiyaki was amazing. Thin and delicate slices of buttery wagyu layered on top of veggies and udon all in a richly flavoured broth, what more can one ask for? And seriously, the amount of marbling on wagyu never ceases to amaze me...it's all so beautiful. Anyway, moving on to sushi. Toro, lobster, scallop, octopus, abalone, salmon roe, toro, and more toro! Wahhh I'm in heaven :) Even Kaji's desserts were stellar. The yuzu mousse's cloud-like texture and the sweet, velvety green tea cake were delicious. Though tasty, I did find the macaron's vivid, hulk-like green a bit weird.

What an exquisite dinner. I admit this meal sets us back several hundred bucks (ouch!) but I would do it all over again in a heartbeat (yes I'm crazy!)